Plywood is one of the most versatile and cost-effective building materials, and as a result, it is also one of the most popular. So many home DIY projects involve the use of this type of wood, and in order to give it a finished look, most turn to stain. We have put together a comprehensive guide to help you understand which plywoods to use and how to stain plywood.
Before you get started on staining, make sure you've finished buying, measuring, and cutting all of your wood. We'll walk through the right steps for selecting plywood, but we haven't provided any guidance on how to best cut your wood. This guide focused on learning about the different types of plywood, and how to best stain them.
Those interested in DIY home improvement may be familiar with using plywood as a substrate or structural wood where the finish is not a factor.
You may not be familiar with the process of staining and finishing plywood. For that reason, we put together this guide on how to stain plywood in your own home improvement projects.
First, there are two main types of plywood:
Hardwood plywood is always of a high grade and it is relatively easy to stain and finish. However, it is much more expensive, and sometimes defeats the purpose of using plywood as the wood of choice.
To find quality hardwood ply in a variety of different species, you typically need to go to a specialty lumber yard. Your typical Home Depot will probably carry one or two varieties of hard plywood, but your selection will be limited.
Softwood, on the other hand, comes with a letter grade as a part of the plywood's grading system. This letter grade is uniformly given throughout the industry, and ranges from A (the highest quality construction grade) to D (the lowest quality).
You'll get the best staining results by using grade A plywood, but all types can be stained with a little bit of upfront work.
Grade A is sanded smooth and may have some repairs made on the wood's surface by the manufacturer. These repairs can include oval-shaped sections of wood that have been cut out and replaced to disguise a flaw.
Grades B and lower have more blemishes and the repairs will more obvious as you look it over. By the time you get to Grade D, there are large knots and splits, and often times the manufacturer hasn't made any repairs.
Most sheets of plywood are different grades on each side. This means that you might find a sheet of ply that is Grade B on one side and Grade D on the other. This is typically fine, as you'll usually be staining just one side for your woodworking project.
Be sure to select the better side for staining!
For instance, plywoods in Grades A-C is readily available at your local home improvement store, and usually for a very reasonable price. This makes it a great option for your DIY project. And, with the right steps, you can stain the plywood for a gorgeous, finished look.
If you're using softwood plywood, the next step is to repair your wood, to the degree you feel necessary. The manufacturer will probably have made some repairs, but you might want to add your own as well.
The degree to which you need to prepare your plywood for a stain depends on the type and grade of ply you have. A hardwood or Grade A plywood probably won't need much prep at all, but a lower grade will.
If your plywood has dents, holes, or splits, you can use a stainable wood filler to fill the gaps in. Be sure to select a wood filler that is both stainable and sandable.
Avoid wood putty, as it does not hold stain the same way wood filler does. The stain won’t penetrate on repairs with putty.
High grade and hardwood plywood is already sanded pretty smooth. These plywood surfaces should be sanded lightly using a 220 grit sandpaper. If you choose to use a powered orbital sander for this light sanding, be very careful that you do not sand through the thin, outer layer of the plywood.
For lower grades of softwood ply, which is commonly what a lot of DIY homemakers use, you'll want to consider sanding in several steps. First, starting a lower grit such as 150, sand evenly across the side you'll be staining. Then, finish with a higher grit such as 220.
No matter what type of wood you have, sanding is a very important step to do before staining. You won't want to add stain to a plywood surface that hasn't been sanded.
After sanding, you'll want to wipe the surface with a tack cloth. This removes the remaining wood dust that is left over from the sanding process. For the best stain results, you need to pull the loose dust and dirt off the surface.
Compared to hardwood, softwood ply can sometimes stain unevenly. What this means is that the soft plywood will take stain more in some areas than in others, causing dark and light patterns that can sometimes look unnatural.
Apply a sealer to your plywood before staining reduces this blotching effect, but it also reduces the amount of stain absorbed by the wood. So, in general, you get a lighter but more consistent staining result.
Sealers are typically very easy to apply - usually you use a simple brush to stroke it onto your plywood surface. Follow the directions on the sealer container to ensure you apply it properly. The moisture in the sealer may raise the grain on the wood again, making it feel rough again. If so, lightly sand over the surface by hand with 400 grit sandpaper.
Applying a sealer is not difficult, but by doing so, you'll need to add more stain to your plywood. Or, you might be alright with a lighter colored final result.
One great option is to test a sealer on an extra piece of plywood, and then apply a stain to see what the finished result will look like. This will ensure you have the right finished look.
At this point, you have successfully prepared your plywood for staining. While it can seem arduous to do the leg work involved in filling and sanding, the finished product will look a lot better as a result.
Wood stains come in two types: water based stain and oil based stain. Generally speaking, here are the main characteristics of each:
Water based stains
Oil based stains
Many first timers opt for water based stains because of their easy application and clean up. However, oil based stains will give you a better finished product, especially on a larger surface.
Related: How to Thin a Wood Stainer
Next stain choice: each of these come in either liquid or gel form. Confused yet? Here are the general characteristics of liquid and gel stains:
To sum it up, many beginners prefer to start with a liquid stain because it very easy to brush on and wipe off. While faster and easier, you have a lot less control of the finished product.
The process for staining oak plywood and other hardwoods is the same as the process for staining regular plywood, with one or two small exceptions. Working with harder woods on your DIY projects can pose a few challenges, but often yields a much nicer result.
Hardwoods such as oak, cherry, maple, mahogany, and birch are not typically found in cheap plywoods, but make for great pieces of wood for fine woodworking and furniture making.
When staining these hard woods, you don't need to add any wood filler to their surface because they are generally without blemish. As a matter of fact, one of the main reasons for selecting these types of hard plywood is because you appreciate the look of the wood's exterior.
Other than that, you also might want to skip sealing your plywood before staining. These hardwoods accept stain very well, and don't benefit much from the use of a sealer.
Your DIY home improvement project may require the use of stained plywood. We hope this guide has helped you to understand how to stain plywood, and we wish you the best of luck in your home improvement projects!