Best Plywood for Staining

Plywood is an economical and all-around product popular with the building industry and DIY home users. It is available in a myriad of finishes with varying quality. Not all plywood is suitable for staining, though. That begs the question: What is the most suitable plywood for staining?

Best Plywood for Staining

The most suitable plywood for staining is smooth and free from defects, such as cabinet-grade hardwood plywood as in oak, ash, or birch finish. 

The veneer face of the plywood is very thin and can be easily damaged during sanding if not taken care of. Look out for high and low spots while sanding. 

Because of the thinness of the veneer, the glue used to bind the veneer layers may interfere with the uptake of the stain.

Oak Plywood

The two popular oak wood plywood is red and white oak. Both accept stains readily and deliver a beautiful, even-colored finish while showing off their dramatic grain. Quartersawn oak plywood provides the best visual impact.

Red Oak

• Red oak is well known for its light brown tint, subtle reddish tone, and dramatic rays.
• The large pores and distinctive coarse grain of red oak readily absorb stains. (It is possible to blow smoke through a plank end grain to end grain when flat sawn). 
• No pre-stain wood conditioning is required as it is not prone to blotchiness when stained.
• Before staining the wood, sand it to a smooth finish with 120-grit sandpaper.
• Red oak is the most popular wood type for staining.

White Oak

• White oak has a denser (tighter) wood grain than red oak, with a neutral undertone and long thin rays.
• It takes up stain less readily than red oak, and multiple stain sessions might be necessary to obtain a dark color.
• White oak delivers an even stain and is not prone to blotchiness.
• Sanding with 180-grit sandpaper is recommended as finer-grade sandpaper will block the tiny pores, hindering pigment absorption.
• White oak is more water resistant than red oak (making it a popular choice for barrel makers).

White Ash Plywood

White Ash has very similar properties to white oak but is lighter in appearance.

• The wood has a coarse to medium, uniform texture with a fine, straight grain.
• White ash is not as hard-wearing as white oak and is best suited for indoor use.
• Ash wood has large pores, stains easily, and produces an even tone without blotches.
• Using 150-180 grit sandpaper for a smooth surface is recommended.
• There is no need to use a wood conditioner before applying the stain.

Birch Plywood (Including Baltic Birch Plywood)

Birch plywood is another popular wood for building furniture and DIY projects. It is easy to work with and gives excellent results. Staining requires more work than with the oaks and ash woods.

Baltic birch plywood differs from ordinary birch plywood in that it is constructed entirely from thin layers of birch veneer, even the core. It is considered a higher quality product than regular birch plywood and is most suitable for furniture-making.

• Birchwood has tiny pores and wood fibers that absorb liquids rapidly.
• The wood is straight-grained with a fine texture with a curvy pattern.
• Birchwood must be treated with a pre-stain wood conditioner to prevent uneven staining.
• The wood is reasonably soft, and care needs to be taken to prevent sanding through the veneer.
• For the best result, stick to a water-based stain.

Cedar Plywood

Cedarwood has a reputation for durability and quality. It is a wood popular for external applications such as shingles, cladding, and furniture-making. 

• Cedarwood’s appearance may vary depending on the tree species that it came from.
• It usually has a straight grain with a uniform texture and may contain small knots.
• Cedar is known for turning a monotonous silvery-gray color when aged.
• The color banding of cedar lumber is not readily seen in plywood because of how the veneer is cut. Cedar plywood tends to be one-colored (light golden brown or reddish brown).
• A semi-transparent stain is the best stain to use if you want to keep the natural aging look of cedar.
• Staining can appear blotchy if the wood is not pre-treated before staining.

White Spruce Plywood

Spruce is a softwood species used extensively worldwide, mainly in construction. It is also a favorite wood for making musical instruments and paper products.

• White spruce wood is light in appearance, with a straight grain and occasional knots.
• Sand with 180-grit sandpaper before staining.
• It readily absorbs stains, but the final result can be blotchy in appearance,
• Pre-treat spruce with a wood conditioner before applying the final stain to reduce the risk of blotchy staining.
• For the best result, keep to light-colored gel stains.

What Happens to Wood When You Stain It?

Before exploring what type of plywood is the best for staining, I need to understand what happens to the wood when it is stained.

Wood stain consists of three parts. The solvent is the vehicle (or means) by which the pigments and binder are transported to the wood fibers and pores. The pigments, consisting of large color/dye molecules, fill all the crevices and pores of the wood and gives color to the wood. And lastly, the binding agent binds the pigments into place as the solvent evaporates.

Unlike paint that forms a layer on top of the wood, sealing it, wood stain pigments penetrate the wood fibers and pores, resulting in a permanent color change and some protection. In comparison, wood dyes only change the color of the wood without providing any protective advantage.

The coarser the wood fibers, the easier the stain pigments to penetrate deep into the wood. Therefore, a softwood like pine takes up stains much more readily than hardwood, for example, maple.

The porosity and texture of the wood determine how even wood takes up stains. Wood with a dis-similar distribution of like-size pores tends to look blotchy after being stained. For this reason, many woodworkers apply a wood conditioner before staining wood types that are known to stain inconsistently. 

How Is Plywood Constructed?

Plywood consists of layers (plies) of thin wood glued together under pressure. Each layer of wood (or veneer) is offset from the next layer by a 90 degrees angle. The number of layers always adds up to an uneven number. Constructing the plywood board evenly around a center layer helps to prevent warping and distortion.

The thinnest plywood is made from only three layers of veneer and is also the weakest and most flexible. The more veneer layers are employed, the stronger the board. Typical ¾ inch plywood comprises five to seven veneer plies (or layers).  

Wood of the same or different type can be used for the plywood board’s front and back faces. The grade of the wood veneer used can also differ, with the best wood used for the face of the plywood. 

The middle, unexposed layers are collectively named the core. The core is usually made from layers of cheaper wood species and can also be constructed from solid wood, MDF, or any other material.

More than one plywood grading system exists. The most common grading system uses the letters A to D, with A being the best grade. For staining purposes, grade A or B plywood is the best to use as it contains the slightest imperfections.

Conclusion

A or B-grade hardwood plywood is the most suitable for staining, with red oak plywood being the easiest to stain. Obtaining an even stain tone with softwood plywood such as spruce and pine can be more challenging.

Preparing the plywood before staining is vital if you want to obtain the effect that you are after. Starting with 100-grit sandpaper (to open up the pores), followed up with 150 to 220-grit sandpaper, will set you up for the best result.